Arica, Norte Grande, Chile

18:29S   70:19W     10hrs (+2hrs roadworks) N by bus from San Pedro de Atacama

Arica is a border town just short of Perù and isn`t a destination for most foreign travellers, but I love this town. I had an excellent welcome here 10 years ago, happenning to land amidst the fireworks and street bands and barbecues on Arica Day, a huge celebration of Chile`s victory in the War of the Pacific.

This is the Atacama, and the mountains and coastal strip are completely devoid of any vegetation except for the two incredibly lush valleys of the Lluta and Azapa rivers which carry snowmelt from the 6000m Andes 100km inland. Both of these valleys are rich in history, full of giant geoglyphs of llamas and hunters, ancient towns, and well preserved collections of Chinchorro and Aymara artifacts including influences from the Tihuanaco and Inca Periods as well as the oldest mummies in the world, some more than 4000 years old. The beaches are fine and have good surf: the coast northwards being a broad expanse where the dunes get increasingly larger inland until they turn into the 2000m foothills to the Andes; and the coast southwards comprising small coves backed by huge cliffs. It`s a popular beach resort for Chileans seeking an escape from the southern Winter, but it`s amazing that it`s not on the international tourist map. Shhhh - don`t tell anyone, and keep it that way!